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FACTORS INVOLVED IN SATISFACTORY SHAVING

LESTER HOLLANDER, M.D.; ELBRIDGE J. CASSELMAN, S.B.
[+] Author Affiliations

Chief, Dermatological Service, Pittsburgh City Hospital; Chief, Dermatological Service, Montefiore Hospital; Medical Director, Pittsburgh Skin and Cancer Foundation; Industrial Fellow, Mellon Institute, University of Pittsburgh PITTSBURGH


JAMA. 1937;109(2):95-101. doi:10.1001/jama.1937.02780280001001
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This article is a summary of the results of four years of investigation on the subject of shaving conducted at Mellon Institute. Our purpose in the study was to ascertain the factors that are involved in obtaining a satisfactory shave, to learn their relative importance and to find such additional information, either in the preparation of the face or in the design of razors, that would lead to improvement in the technic of this daily task.

It is said that it was Scipio the younger1 who introduced shaving as a daily procedure among the Romans. But of course pogonotomy,2 or shaving, is a much older art. Archeological excavations have uncovered objects in most ancient civilizations, including Egypt and Babylonia,3 which today are regarded as razors. The Bible4 contains decrees regarding shaving. Barbers were a distinct group of artisans as early as 400 B. C. in Greece.

REFERENCES

Nettleship, Henry, and Sandys, J. E., in Seyffert, Oskar: Dictionary of Classical Antiquities , ed. 3, London, Standard Book Company, p. 266.
Beard, in New Standard Encyclopedia , New York, Funk & Wagnalls Company 3:277, 1931;.
Perrett, J. J.: La pogonotomie, ou l'art d'apprendre à se rason soi-même , Yverdon, France, 1770;.
Partington, J. R.: Origins and Development of Applied Chemistry , New York, 1935;, pp. 74-75.
Numbers 6: 5 and 9; Leviticus 21: 5; Ezekiel 5: 1.
Barber, in New Standard Encyclopedia , New York, Funk & Wagnalls Company 2:457, 1931;.
Adams, A. M.:  Is Shaving Injurious to the Health? Edinburgh M. J. 7: 566-573, 1861;
 The Beard Question , M. & S. Rep. 5:234-236, 1861;.
Wallnitz, H.:  Hygienische Nachteile der Stoff-Bartbinde , Aerztl. Rundschau, München 17:411, 1907;.
 Shall We Stop Shaving? Lit. Digest 66:125-128 ( (Sept. 11) ) 1920;.
Bowers, E. F.:  Menace of Whiskers , McClure's Magazine 46: 90 ( (March) ) 1916;.
 On Whiskers and the Brutal Art of Shaving , Scribner's Magazine 73:249-250 ( (Feb.) ) 1923;.
 To Shave or Not to Shave , Mentor 16:66 ( (Feb.) ) 1928;.
Ricketts, B. M.:  The Use and Abuse of Soap and Water , J. Cutan. & Genito-Urin. Dis. 8: 175-181, 1890;.
 Soap Free From Lye , Sc. American 131: 188 ( (Sept.) ) 1926;.
Ittner, M. H.:  Soaps , J. Home Economics 17:189-194, 1925;.
Clemm, W. N.:  Die Bedeutung der Seifen in der Heilkunde , Fortschr. d. Med., Berlin 42:100-102, 1924;.
Goodman, Herman: Cosmetic Dermatology , New York, McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1936;, pp. 246, 247 and 489.
McGowan, E. B.: A Comparative Study of Detergents , Columbia University Contributions to Education, No. (441) , 1930;, p. 34.
Walker, J. E.:  The Germicidal and Therapeutic Applications of Soaps , J. A. M. A. 97: 19-20 ( (July 4) ) 1931;.
Speakman, J. B.:  The Adsorption of Water by Wool , J. Soc. Chem. Indust. 49:T209-213, 1930;
 The Intercellular Structure of Wool Fiber , J. Textile Inst. 18: T 434-T 453, 1927;.
Nessler, C.: The Story of Hair , New York, 1928;, p. 273.
Speakman, J. B.:  The Elastic Properties of Wool in Organic Liquids , Tr. Farad. Soc. 26:61-69, 1930;.
Danforth, C. H.: Hair with Special Reference to Hypertrichosis, Chicago , American Medical Association, 1925;, p. 70.
Fuchs, H.:  Studien über die Wachstumgeschwindheit der Kopfhaare , Med. Klin. 16: 1316-1319, 1920;.
Seymour, R. J.:  Effect of Cutting on Rate of Hair Growth , Am. J. Physiol. 78:281 ( (Oct.) ) 1926;.
Hausman, L. A.:  Histological Variability of Human Hair , Am. J. Phys. Anthropol. 18:415 ( (Jan.) ) 1934;.
Bulliard, H.:  Influence de la section et du rasage répète sur l'évolution du poil , Ann. d. dermat. et syph. 6 s 4: 386-391, 1923;.
Trotter, M.:  Form, Size and Color of Head Hair , Am. J. Phys. Anthropol. 14:433-435 ( (Sept.) ) 1930;.
 Upham and Landauer: Relation of Thickness of Cutis and Subcutis to Hair Slope in the Human Skin , Anat. Rec. 61:359-366 ( (Feb. 25) ) 1933;.
Yamada, K.:  Angle of Skin and Hair Roots , Folia anat. japon. 12:106 ( (April) ) 1934;
12:117-127.
Hubbard, S. D.: Diseases of the Hair and Scalp , Philadelphia, Lea & Febiger, 1928;, pp. 49 and 104.
Shoemaker, J. V.: Diseases of the Skin , ed. 2, New York, 1888;, p. 17
McDonough, E. G.:  Skin Fatigue and Sensitivity , Drug & Cosmet. Ind. 36:277-278, 1935;.
Pusey, W. A.: The Principles and Practice of Dermatology , ed. 4, New York, D. Appleton & Co., 1924;, pp. 4-5.
Sutton, R. L., and Sutton, R. L., Jr.: Diseases of the Skin , ed. 9, St. Louis, C. V. Mosby Company, 1935;, p. 51.
Policard, A., and Trichkovitch, Juliana:  Sur la fixation directe des graisses par les glandes sébacées , Compt. rend. Acad. d. sc. 174:1364, 1922;
 Sur le mode de fonctionnement histopathologique des glandes sébacées , Lyon méd. 131: 981-983, 1922;.
Kuznitsky:  Sebaceous Secretion , Ztschr. f. Biochem. u. Biophys. , Vol. 14, p. 867.
Pachur, R.:  Secretion of Sebum on Human Skin Surface , Arch. f. Dermat. u. Syph. 162:253-259, 1930;.
The Science of Shaving , Cambridge, England, Heffer & Sons, 1931;.
Pusey, W. A.: The Care of the Skin and Hair , New York, D. Appleton & Co., 1917;, p. 150.
Goodman, Herman: Cosmetic Dermatology , New York, McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1936;, pp. 486-487.
Casselman. E. J.: U. S. patent 1983597.
Danforth.12 Fuchs.12 Seymour.12
Seymour.12 Bulliard.12 Trotter.13
Yamada (references 13c and 13d).
Dockrell, M.: An Atlas of Dermatology London, 1905;, plate I.
Bond, A. K.:  Slanting Wounds of the Hairy Skin , Maryland M. J. 39:851, 1893;.
McGowan.8
Fash, R. H.:  Increasing the Effective Life of Razor Blades , J. Indust. & Engin. Chem. 29: 68-70, 1937;.
Cutlery, in New Standard Encyclopedia , New York, Funk & Wagnalls 8: 266, 1931;.

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Nettleship, Henry, and Sandys, J. E., in Seyffert, Oskar: Dictionary of Classical Antiquities , ed. 3, London, Standard Book Company, p. 266.
Beard, in New Standard Encyclopedia , New York, Funk & Wagnalls Company 3:277, 1931;.
Perrett, J. J.: La pogonotomie, ou l'art d'apprendre à se rason soi-même , Yverdon, France, 1770;.
Partington, J. R.: Origins and Development of Applied Chemistry , New York, 1935;, pp. 74-75.
Numbers 6: 5 and 9; Leviticus 21: 5; Ezekiel 5: 1.
Barber, in New Standard Encyclopedia , New York, Funk & Wagnalls Company 2:457, 1931;.
Adams, A. M.:  Is Shaving Injurious to the Health? Edinburgh M. J. 7: 566-573, 1861;
 The Beard Question , M. & S. Rep. 5:234-236, 1861;.
Wallnitz, H.:  Hygienische Nachteile der Stoff-Bartbinde , Aerztl. Rundschau, München 17:411, 1907;.
 Shall We Stop Shaving? Lit. Digest 66:125-128 ( (Sept. 11) ) 1920;.
Bowers, E. F.:  Menace of Whiskers , McClure's Magazine 46: 90 ( (March) ) 1916;.
 On Whiskers and the Brutal Art of Shaving , Scribner's Magazine 73:249-250 ( (Feb.) ) 1923;.
 To Shave or Not to Shave , Mentor 16:66 ( (Feb.) ) 1928;.
Ricketts, B. M.:  The Use and Abuse of Soap and Water , J. Cutan. & Genito-Urin. Dis. 8: 175-181, 1890;.
 Soap Free From Lye , Sc. American 131: 188 ( (Sept.) ) 1926;.
Ittner, M. H.:  Soaps , J. Home Economics 17:189-194, 1925;.
Clemm, W. N.:  Die Bedeutung der Seifen in der Heilkunde , Fortschr. d. Med., Berlin 42:100-102, 1924;.
Goodman, Herman: Cosmetic Dermatology , New York, McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1936;, pp. 246, 247 and 489.
McGowan, E. B.: A Comparative Study of Detergents , Columbia University Contributions to Education, No. (441) , 1930;, p. 34.
Walker, J. E.:  The Germicidal and Therapeutic Applications of Soaps , J. A. M. A. 97: 19-20 ( (July 4) ) 1931;.
Speakman, J. B.:  The Adsorption of Water by Wool , J. Soc. Chem. Indust. 49:T209-213, 1930;
 The Intercellular Structure of Wool Fiber , J. Textile Inst. 18: T 434-T 453, 1927;.
Nessler, C.: The Story of Hair , New York, 1928;, p. 273.
Speakman, J. B.:  The Elastic Properties of Wool in Organic Liquids , Tr. Farad. Soc. 26:61-69, 1930;.
Danforth, C. H.: Hair with Special Reference to Hypertrichosis, Chicago , American Medical Association, 1925;, p. 70.
Fuchs, H.:  Studien über die Wachstumgeschwindheit der Kopfhaare , Med. Klin. 16: 1316-1319, 1920;.
Seymour, R. J.:  Effect of Cutting on Rate of Hair Growth , Am. J. Physiol. 78:281 ( (Oct.) ) 1926;.
Hausman, L. A.:  Histological Variability of Human Hair , Am. J. Phys. Anthropol. 18:415 ( (Jan.) ) 1934;.
Bulliard, H.:  Influence de la section et du rasage répète sur l'évolution du poil , Ann. d. dermat. et syph. 6 s 4: 386-391, 1923;.
Trotter, M.:  Form, Size and Color of Head Hair , Am. J. Phys. Anthropol. 14:433-435 ( (Sept.) ) 1930;.
 Upham and Landauer: Relation of Thickness of Cutis and Subcutis to Hair Slope in the Human Skin , Anat. Rec. 61:359-366 ( (Feb. 25) ) 1933;.
Yamada, K.:  Angle of Skin and Hair Roots , Folia anat. japon. 12:106 ( (April) ) 1934;
12:117-127.
Hubbard, S. D.: Diseases of the Hair and Scalp , Philadelphia, Lea & Febiger, 1928;, pp. 49 and 104.
Shoemaker, J. V.: Diseases of the Skin , ed. 2, New York, 1888;, p. 17
McDonough, E. G.:  Skin Fatigue and Sensitivity , Drug & Cosmet. Ind. 36:277-278, 1935;.
Pusey, W. A.: The Principles and Practice of Dermatology , ed. 4, New York, D. Appleton & Co., 1924;, pp. 4-5.
Sutton, R. L., and Sutton, R. L., Jr.: Diseases of the Skin , ed. 9, St. Louis, C. V. Mosby Company, 1935;, p. 51.
Policard, A., and Trichkovitch, Juliana:  Sur la fixation directe des graisses par les glandes sébacées , Compt. rend. Acad. d. sc. 174:1364, 1922;
 Sur le mode de fonctionnement histopathologique des glandes sébacées , Lyon méd. 131: 981-983, 1922;.
Kuznitsky:  Sebaceous Secretion , Ztschr. f. Biochem. u. Biophys. , Vol. 14, p. 867.
Pachur, R.:  Secretion of Sebum on Human Skin Surface , Arch. f. Dermat. u. Syph. 162:253-259, 1930;.
The Science of Shaving , Cambridge, England, Heffer & Sons, 1931;.
Pusey, W. A.: The Care of the Skin and Hair , New York, D. Appleton & Co., 1917;, p. 150.
Goodman, Herman: Cosmetic Dermatology , New York, McGraw-Hill Book Company, 1936;, pp. 486-487.
Casselman. E. J.: U. S. patent 1983597.
Danforth.12 Fuchs.12 Seymour.12
Seymour.12 Bulliard.12 Trotter.13
Yamada (references 13c and 13d).
Dockrell, M.: An Atlas of Dermatology London, 1905;, plate I.
Bond, A. K.:  Slanting Wounds of the Hairy Skin , Maryland M. J. 39:851, 1893;.
McGowan.8
Fash, R. H.:  Increasing the Effective Life of Razor Blades , J. Indust. & Engin. Chem. 29: 68-70, 1937;.
Cutlery, in New Standard Encyclopedia , New York, Funk & Wagnalls 8: 266, 1931;.
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